
Star chef
105 kg tuna! Dietmar & the strong men
Chef Dietmar Sawyere breaks down a tuna from Bianchi with his crew at the «Chedi» Andermatt. A feat of strength!
August 27, 2020
Text: Kathia Baltisberger Photos: Nik Hunger
Mega tuna. At «The Chedi», things are generally a little bigger. That is also true of the tuna on this day. Chef Dietmar Sawyere receives a special delivery: a 105 kg bluefin tuna from Spain. Delicatessen supplier Bianchi delivered early in the morning. The Styrofoam box with the fish inside is about the size of a chest freezer. «Woaah», exclaims Kazuki Taniguchi, Sawyere’s sushi master at «The Japanese Restaurant». The Japanese chef has never broken down such a large fish. But before filleting can begin, the ice has to be skimmed off to bring the tuna to the Japanese restaurant.

A Styrofoam cooler: first, the tuna has to be freed from the ice.
Curious looks. The chilled – not frozen – fish is wheeled through the «catacombs» of the «Chedi» on a service trolley. And how do you get this huge thing onto the counter? «The two of us can manage it», says Sawyere with a healthy dose of optimism. But he is mistaken: two more crew members have to lend a hand. Time and again, a curious face pokes its nose into the restaurant. Because what is happening here does not happen every day. «Normally we order tuna weighing 40 kg», says Sawyere.

The chef makes the first cut. Breaking down such a large fish is not more difficult, but more strenuous.
Backbreaking work. Dietmar Sawyere, Kazuki Taniguchi and sous-chef Radu Spinei set about taking the huge thing apart. Backbreaking work. Filleting is not necessarily more difficult, but certainly more strenuous. Sawyere and his team will not need to go to the gym today. First they saw off the fins, then they get down to business. With the meaty parts, a distinction is made between toro and akami. Toro refers to the belly cuts: chutoro, otoro, kama toro. They are very fatty and much lighter than akami, the cuts from the back. And a direct taste comparison shows: toro is far more intense in flavour, an umami bomb.

The tuna is a bluefin tuna from Spain – delivered by Bianchi.

Two ways with tuna: toro and akami with caviar and avocado.
«Nose to tail». All pieces can be used for both sushi and hot tuna dishes. Nothing is wasted. In Switzerland, everything served raw must be deep-frozen for 24 hours. «The meat goes into the blast freezer, so the quality does not suffer either», says Sawyere. This means the giant tuna is used up in about two weeks. But the work is not yet done. The crew scrapes all the meat off the bones. «We use the trimmings, for example, for tuna tartare», says Sawyere. The finished pieces are then divided up: one part stays in the «Chedi» main building, another part goes to the «branch» on the «Gütsch». After around an hour, the hardest part is done. Chef Dietmar can plate up – for the photo. He arranges a piece of akami and a piece of toro on the plate. Avocado, ginger and caviar are served alongside. The whole thing sits under a cloche filled with cherrywood smoke.

