Star Chef
14 Kilos! Mega Turbot for the Bürgenstock
For Easter, the Bürgenstock offers a rarity: a 14-kilo turbot! Luca Bianchi delivers it personally.
April 1, 2021
Text: Kathia Baltisberger Photos: Thomas Buchwalder
At the fish auction in Les Sables‑d’Olonne: A fisherman caught a giant turbot in the Bay of Biscay. At the auction on the French Atlantic coast, fish specialty dealer Bianchi wins the bid. „14 kilos! I’ve never seen such a large turbot,“ says Luca Bianchi, co-managing director of Bianchi AG. Normally, turbot – or brill – weighs seven to eight kilos and is caught with a rod. An animal twice that size is a rarity. Bianchi has a man on site who places the bids. „Such fish are sought after; it’s a challenge to get them.“
Large image above: Mike Wehrle and Luca Bianchi (from left).
The turbot is twice as large as those Bianchi usually sells.
Filleting a turbot is not difficult; it just requires different tools than for smaller specimens.
Quality control: Mike Wehrle and Luca Bianchi are satisfied with their catch.
When Bianchi rings twice. But which chef do you call to sell the fish? Mike Wehrle, Culinary Director at the Bürgenstock Resort, is in a meeting and misses two calls from Bianchi. „I thought something had happened,“ Wehrle jokes. When he calls back, the offer is made. „You don’t have to think long about that. I’ve never seen such a large specimen either.“ The fish species is suitable; the turbot is on the Easter menu at „RitzCoffier“. The restaurant is actually closed due to the pandemic, but on Good Friday and Easter Saturday, there is an exception for hotel guests. Wehrle will even be cooking himself.
This is what the prepared turbot looks like on the plate – with peas and Vulcano ham.
The cheeks are for the chef. The chef fillets the thing himself. „It’s not difficult; you just have to use a different knife.“ The firm, white flesh separates easily from the carcass. You don’t even have to pluck bones. Quickly remove the cheeks. „That’s the best part of the fish.“ But even a 14-kilo turbot only has two cheeks – not enough for the guests. „Maybe I’ll serve them to a regular guest. Otherwise, I’ll eat them myself,“ says Wehrle with a knowing smile that reveals his anticipation.
Spring Plate. However, guests also receive a beautiful dish: pan-fried turbot with pea puree, fresh peas (the first of the season), a Champagne beurre blanc, and a crispy slice of Vulcano ham. The fish has a good bite, yet is tender. „And because it’s an older animal, the turbot is even more flavorful.“