
THE LIVING CIRCLE
André Jaeger & his fish from Brittany
Fish buffet? André Jaeger! The Schaffhausen chef serves the best from Brittany at the „Storchen“ in Zurich.
February 7, 2019
Text: Patricia Heller Photos: Lucia Hunziker
650 kilos of the finest seafood. André Jaeger is a legend! At the „Fischerzunft“ in Schaffhausen, he cooked for 19 points for decades—delighting his loyal guests twice a year with his magnificent fish buffet. Over 40 years ago, a guest encouraged him to travel to Brittany himself and purchase lobster directly. For car enthusiast Jaeger, this was no problem: „I bought a refrigerated truck from the bankruptcy office in Diessenhofen, drove to Brittany, and returned with over 1,000 kilograms of sea fish, lobster, crabs, and mussels in the cooling compartment. I actually only wanted to host a lobster evening, but it turned into the fish buffet!“ However, retirement is not an option for such a passionate chef as Jaeger. That’s why his fish buffet continues—in March at the Rôtisserie of the „Storchen.“ Bianchi is his supplier: 650 kilos of fish are ordered!

The „Storchen“ directly on the Limmat is a hotel with tremendous tradition.

Seafood on the Limmat: from left, kingfish, monkfish, turbot, St. Pierre, salmon, loup de mer, and rouget.

Giulio Bianchi (left) supplies André with everything his heart desires for the fish buffet at the „Storchen.“
MSC seal for sustainable fishing. André Jaeger says about his appearance at the elegant „Living Circle“ hotel: „I am tremendously excited about the fish buffet. This week I was at Bianchi in Zuffikon and witnessed the refrigerated trucks arriving from Brittany. Everything the heart desires is there: loup de mer, rouget, monkfish, turbot. Those deep red gills and those glassy eyes! That is the quality I enjoy eating myself and that I want to prepare for my guests. I am a visual person; when I see all these products, ideas and inspiration for new dishes come to me.“ For his fish buffet at Hotel Storchen, André Jaeger uses only what is certified with the MSC seal: „We have a responsibility; the fish are all ‚pêche à la ligne,‘ meaning caught from small boats. I am committed to sustainable fishing.“ He says this calmly, without appearing preachy.
Dream team André & Cyrille. André Jaeger wrote this year’s menu together with Frenchman Cyrille Anizan, the 14-point chef of the „Rôtisserie.“ „We discussed a great deal with each other. In the end, the menu works for both of us.“ Dishes such as „Octopus with bread salad à la Provençale“ or „Moules marinières à la Poulette“ are inspired by Cyrille. Jaeger: „For the guest, there is a bit more Provence and a bit less Asian cuisine on the buffet. And this year we are working together. Last year, every single fish went through my hands.“
Premiere with salmon from Lostallo. New on the buffet: Swiss salmon from the fish farm in Lostallo GR. Jaeger will cook it whole at low temperature in the oven and serve it as a warm appetizer with an egg-tarragon remoulade! The fish farm in the Italian-speaking part of Graubünden is distinguished by sustainable fish farming. The salmon grows in fresh mountain water without antibiotics and chemicals. The distances are short; the freshness is unmatched. „I have already tried the Swiss salmon; the quality is fantastic. I have not prepared it myself yet; this will be a premiere.“
