BIANCHI ON THE ROAD
Bianchi & the Chefs in Oyster Paradise
Guests and chefs alike adore Gillardeau oysters. Bianchi visits the oyster farm with its customers.
Text: Kathia Baltisberger | October 27, 2024
The „G“ is world-famous. Engraved into the robust shell of Gillardeau oysters, this brand represents the pinnacle of oyster quality. This coveted delicacy is produced on the Île d’Oléron off the French Atlantic coast. The Swiss delicacy specialist Bianchi is the exclusive distributor of these oysters here in Switzerland. The two companies share many commonalities: both were established at the end of the 19th century, both are family-owned, and both remain 100% independent. Thierry Gillardeau leads the traditional company in its fourth generation, while his son Robbie, who runs the in-house snack bar, represents the 5th generation. Luca and Dario Bianchi are the fifth-generation managing directors, actively supported by their fathers, Paolo and Giulio.
Gillardeau Spécial de Claire Oysters – the ultimate in quality!
Olivier Rais (far right, Baur au Lac) takes a close look during the oyster refining process.
The delegation of chefs. United in their „Mission Oyster,“ Luca and his uncle Giulio Bianchi traveled to France’s second-largest island. They were joined by a premier group: Franz Faeh (Palace Gstaad), Olivier Rais (Baur au Lac), Marco Veneruso (Splendid Royal Lugano), Thomas Brandner (Brasserie Süd), and food scout Richi Kägi. Also part of the group was Alessandro Battaglio, the third CEO alongside Luca and Dario Bianchi. „I have always been fascinated by the fact that an oyster brand has to laser-engrave its logo—a ‚G‘—onto the shells to combat the problem of counterfeiting. We aren’t talking about a Hermès handbag here, but a food item,“ says Luca Bianchi. Yet, Gillardeau oysters are no ordinary food—a fact the delegation of chefs was able to see for themselves on-site. Oysters are generally classified into four quality levels: Huitre de Parc (no refining), Claires (simple refining), Fine de Claires (special refining), and Spécial de Claires (particularly long refining). Gillardeau has always focused on the highest quality, and it shows.
Gillardeau travel group: Olivier Rais, Franz Faeh, Richi Kägi, Marco Veneruso, Giulio Bianchi, Luca Bianchi, Thomas Brandner (back row from left), Alessandro Battaglia, Laurent Védrenne (Sales Director, Maison Gillardeau) (front row from left).
No overcrowding stress. Gillardeau oysters are cultivated for a total of four years. The oyster larvae spend their first nine months in nursery containers. Afterward, they are placed in bags and lowered into deeper waters for three years. „That is where the particularly plankton-rich water is found, which the oysters need for nourishment,“ we learned. Maison Gillardeau ensures that the oysters are not subjected to density stress. While a bag could fit around 1,000 oysters, the growers only place 135 to 150 pieces in each one. Even when they are in the depths of the sea, the work is far from over; the oysters are regularly cleaned of parasites and turned.
The oysters are refined here in these basins.
The oysters are refined here in these basins.
Each oyster container holds 500 kg of oysters. They are then moved to the refining basin.
Each oyster container holds 500 kg of oysters. They are then moved to the refining basin.
4th and 5th generation Gillardeau and Bianchi: Giulio Bianchi, Robbie Gillardeau, Luca Bianchi, and Thierry Gillardeau.
4th and 5th generation Gillardeau and Bianchi: Giulio Bianchi, Robbie Gillardeau, Luca Bianchi, and Thierry Gillardeau.
Simply different. The final phase of oyster farming takes place in what are known as oyster beds. „And that is precisely the Gillardeau family’s secret. The density during the maturation process has a major influence on quality. After harvesting, the oysters are strictly sorted and cleaned,“ explains Luca Bianchi. Gillardeau oysters stand out from other specimens at first glance. „The meat is particularly firm and fills the entire shell. In terms of flavor, the oyster is very rich, savory, and hardly salty. Mineral and vegetal aromas transition gently into a slightly sweet and nutty taste with an infinitely long finish,“ says Bianchi, describing the culinary experience.
Pure enthusiasm: The chefs and the Bianchis learned a great deal about Gillardeau oysters.
Pure enthusiasm: The chefs and the Bianchis learned a great deal about Gillardeau oysters.
The bay in front of Maison Gillardeau, right next to the Île d’Oléron.
The bay in front of Maison Gillardeau, right next to the Île d’Oléron.
3,500 oysters per season. The chefs are thrilled. „The product speaks for itself, of course. But through this visit, we have come to know the oyster in a whole new way. It is incredible how much work goes into it and which factors must align so that the oysters always maintain the same standard,“ says Thomas Brandner, who will soon be serving the delicacy as a special at „Brasserie Süd.“ Incidentally, orders from Swiss Deluxe Hotels are large and consistent. „We have delivered around 3,500 oysters to Marguita since it opened at the end of June. And we send just as many per winter season to the Palace in Gstaad,“ says Luca Bianchi. Franz Faeh already had Gillardeau oysters as a permanent fixture on his summer menu, and that won’t change for the winter. „These oysters are simply in a class of their own—both in quality and taste. It would almost be a shame to turn them into a complex dish. I serve them exactly as they are: with a mignonette, lemon juice, and for those who absolutely insist, a dash of Tabasco,“ says Franz Faeh.