„Hönggerhof“: Fish from the Aging Cabinet!
The Italian restaurant dry-ages the fish for several days – the result is astonishingly delicious.
November 2025
A Souvenir from Vacation. How does fish taste best? As fresh as possible? The surprising answer currently given at „Hönggerhof“ in Zurich is this: the best result is achieved by hanging the fish in an aging cabinet and simply waiting for several days! „I learned this method three years ago during my summer vacation in my home country of Sicily,“ says host Pietro Prestito, „and told our chef Andrea Mocci about it.“ A few months later, the man at the helm of the 15-point restaurant also encountered the same technique in Sardinia, his homeland. He then devoured everything he could learn about dry aging fish. Among other things, he read three books by Josh Niland – this Australian is considered a luminary when it comes to this extraordinary technique. For several weeks now, dry-aged fish has been offered at „Hönggerhof.“ Large image above: Pietro Prestito & Andrea Mocci (from left).
Before aging the fish, the scales are removed with a knife.
Before aging the fish, the scales are removed with a knife.
Whole fish, as well as large tuna pieces, can be aged.
Whole fish, as well as large tuna pieces, can be aged.
Almost like veal: St. Pierre with pomegranate beurre blanc.
Almost like veal: St. Pierre with pomegranate beurre blanc.
At the market in the morning, delivered in the afternoon. For dry aging to work, several factors must be considered: as soon as the fish is pulled from the sea, it must not come into contact with fresh water, as this would contaminate it. Therefore, it should neither be washed nor placed directly on ice. It is also crucial that the goods arrive in Zurich no later than 24 hours after being caught: „Every Wednesday morning at 7 AM, I receive photos from the markets in France, Portugal, or Italy, showing what’s available,“ Mocci enthusiastically recounts. „I have half an hour to respond. The fish are then delivered in the afternoon.“ The corresponding logistics are, as one might suspect, handled by Bianchi Comestibles.
Intense: Tuna Tataki with olive, basil oil, soy sauce, and allspice.
Intense: Tuna Tataki with olive, basil oil, soy sauce, and allspice.
Below 2 degrees, 80 percent humidity. The subsequent steps for preservation are also important: the whole fish must be freed from entrails and all blood. Watching Mocci, one notices that he has considerable practice. The scales must also be removed. This is not done by scraping with the back of a knife, but with precisely placed cuts, so that only a thin membrane remains on the fish fillets. The fish prepared in this manner – in our case, meagre with still deep red gills – is placed into the aging cabinet within an hour of processing, where a controlled temperature of a maximum of two degrees Celsius prevails. The air circulating within has a controlled humidity of approximately 80 percent. Whole fish remain in the cabinet for up to 20 days; a piece of tuna (where the entire fish does not have to be used) ages for about 10 days. „A great advantage of this elaborate technique,“ says host Pietro Prestito, „is that it expands the window during which the fish offers the highest enjoyment. This provides greater flexibility in planning.“
Andrea Mocci prepares his Italian-Japanese dish with meticulous attention to detail.
Andrea Mocci prepares his Italian-Japanese dish with meticulous attention to detail.
Intense aroma, umami notes. Two questions inevitably come into focus for anyone hearing about fish dry aging for the first time: What dishes are ultimately prepared with the fish? And how good do they taste? A first hint of this is gained when Andrea Mocci serves his Italian-inspired sashimi. Tuna is thinly sliced raw and served with olive oil, soy sauce, basil oil, chives, and allspice. The fish meat, aged for nine days, has a robust flavor; even if it’s „only“ the belly piece called „Akami,“ the aroma is almost as intense as that of a fattier „Chutoro“ or „Otoro.“ „One of our guests even said,“ Prestito proudly recounts, „that it was better sashimi than he had ever had in Japan.“ Equally astonishing: thinly sliced, white King Fish, aged for eight days. It is served with finger lime ponzu. Here, the slightly denser texture is noticeable, along with a pleasant, almost nutty fish aroma that perfectly harmonizes with the fresh sauce.
The „Hönggerhof“ nestled between vineyards and the Limmat River.
The „Hönggerhof“ nestled between vineyards and the Limmat River.
Noticeably denser texture: Kingfish with finger lime ponzu.
Noticeably denser texture: Kingfish with finger lime ponzu.
Almost like veal. Finally, the most astonishing dish is the pan-fried St. Pierre, which Chef Andrea Mocci serves with pomegranate beurre blanc and bimi broccoli. The fish has an almost meaty, compact texture and a flavor profile nearly as neutral as veal. A brilliant canvas for a chef! „Perhaps we have always prepared fish incorrectly until now?“ Pietro Prestito boldly suggests. And the centuries-old history of cooking has often shown: it is always worthwhile to occasionally stray from the usual paths.
Anne-Sophie Pic & Eric Vildgaard. The „Hönggerhof“ with its dry-aged fish is on trend. Copenhagen’s wild three-star chef Eric Vildgaard serves his dry-aged turbot with caviar and Vin jaune. Icon Anne-Sophie Pic herself places whitefish from Lac Leman in the aging cabinet at her restaurant in Lausanne, then serves it with kohlrabi, squid strips, and fir sprouts.
Learn more about the Dry Ager www.bianchi.ch