The Hiramasa kingfish, also known as yellowtail amberjack. Artwork: Monique Baumann
The Hiramasa kingfish, also known as yellowtail amberjack. Artwork: Monique Baumann
Mise En Place with
Luca Bianchi
Recorded by Barbara Halter
Recorded by Barbara Halter
Elegant balance. The Hiramasa kingfish is the diplomat among fish – it pairs beautifully with everything and everyone. I particularly appreciate its elegant balance: it is fatty enough to be succulent and aromatic, yet so clean and fine in flavor that it never feels heavy. Originally, the kingfish – also called yellowtail amberjack – hails from the Indo-Pacific region. Alongside Hiramasa, there are the Hamachi and Kanpachi varieties, which differ in fat content and texture. Our Hiramasa kingfish comes from a sustainable farm in Denmark and is delivered to Switzerland three times a week by land. A whole fish weighs approximately three to four kilograms, with fillets ranging from 700 to 900 grams.
Luca Bianchi, 5th Generation Bianchi
Luca Bianchi, 5th Generation Bianchi
Aroma of salt and sea. Good quality is recognized by bright, glassy eyes and deep red gills. The flesh is pale pink to slightly whitish and has a firm, compact structure. It must never be mushy or show dark oxidation streaks. Premium kingfish has a lightly salty ocean scent – and certainly not a fishy one. That is crucial!
Raw or lightly seared. From the kingfish, the fillet is primarily eaten; the belly flap is fattier and the loin, meaning the back fillet, is leaner. In general, the kingfish lends itself to versatile applications, such as sushi, sashimi, ceviche, or carpaccio. For grilled dishes, connoisseurs often reach for the collar – called „Kama“ in Japanese – or use the carcasses for a stock. When it comes to preparation, I belong to the less-is-more camp. The fish is superb raw. It becomes even more exciting when lightly torched using the Aburi technique. Very brief searing – truly just a few seconds on the skin – creates an incredible interplay of crispy texture and succulence. What one should avoid: overcooking it. Because that strips the kingfish of precisely what defines it.
A hint of ginger. With spices, I recommend a minimalist approach: salt, a touch of yuzu citrus, a hint of ginger or sesame – often that is all it takes. Miso or soy also pair very well. I enjoy Hiramasa as sashimi with yuzu and sea salt, seared on the skin with fennel and lemon, or as tartare with avocado and lime. I serve the fish in a way that keeps its quality visible: clean plates, precise cuts, a few targeted accents. Above all, one should not drown the kingfish in sauce. My tip for the kitchen: work with a sharp knife – a dull blade ruins its texture.
Unforgettable. I had my finest kingfish at „Mylos By The Sea“ on the Greek island of Leros. The restaurant specializes in dry-aged fish. They hang the kingfish for ten days, let it dry slightly, slice it raw, and serve it as a delicate carpaccio with a touch of lemon olive oil, toasted capers, and sea salt. A poem!