
BIANCHI ON THE ROAD
Whale Blubber & Ptarmigan: Luca Bianchi in Greenland
The journey is adventurous, the 18-course menu spectacular. Luca Bianchi at Restaurant Koks in Greenland.
Text: GaultMillau | September 25, 2024
“Koks” in Greenland. It is the most remote restaurant in the world: “Koks”. In fact, the two-star restaurant is based in the Faroe Islands. That is already quite remote. But over the past three years, head chef Poul Andrias Ziska and his team have moved even farther away—namely to Greenland. A spontaneous visit is impossible, and there is certainly no walk-in trade at this venue with just 30 seats. And yet there are many guests who are happy to make the journey. One of them is Luca Bianchi, Co-CEO of Bianchi AG. At the company, Luca is responsible for the Fish and Seafood division and travels several times a year as a food scout to far-flung countries to visit new products and producers.

Restaurant Koks has been located in Greenland for three summers now.

The journey there is long and adventurous. From Ilulissat, you continue by boat.
Seal blood sausage & moose offal. “I’ve been to Koks in the Faroe Islands before. I was so impressed that we added some products, such as sea urchins, to our range,” says Luca Bianchi. The new Koks is located in Ilimanaq, a village of 50 souls on Greenland’s west coast, more than 300 km north of the Arctic Circle. The vegetation has a major influence on the products available here. Fruit and vegetables are scarce, but there is plenty of fish and other delicacies from the sea. “I heard that Ziska serves seal blood sausage, gull wings, whale, or moose offal. Of course, I absolutely didn’t want to miss that.” So Luca Bianchi sets off for Greenland together with his girlfriend Deborah Pranjes—with stopovers in Copenhagen, Oslo, and Reykjavik.

Only 50 people live in the little village of Ilimanaq.

Luca Bianchi travelled to Greenland with his girlfriend Deborah.
An adventurous journey through the eternal ice. From Iceland, you fly to the NATO base at Kangerlussuaq in Greenland. From there, you continue in a small propeller plane to Ilulissat. “Halfway there we had to make an extra stop to pick up a doctor who makes house calls in the ‘neighbouring village’,” says Bianchi. From Ilulissat, you continue by boat to Ilimanaq—an initial highlight of the trip: “The scenery—past huge glaciers, ice fields, icebergs, and channels carved through the ice—was simply breathtaking.” That everything runs smoothly on the way there is by no means a given. “Domestic flights are often postponed due to extreme weather conditions. But we were very lucky and were able to stick to the tight schedule.”

Mattak is a traditional Greenlandic dish made from whale blubber. At “Koks”, they have their own version of it.
Mattak is a traditional Greenlandic dish made from whale blubber. At “Koks”, they have their own version of it.

The restaurant is cosy. A good thing, as a meal can easily last up to six hours.
The restaurant is cosy. A good thing, as a meal can easily last up to six hours.
Whale blubber comfort food. But Luca Bianchi did not come for the view—he came for Chef Ziska and his extraordinary menu. This culinary journey began with a bowhead whale. Around 10,000 specimens live in the Arctic. Two may be killed each year. “We were served mattak. It’s a dish of raw whale blubber served with the skin. It didn’t taste fishy at all, but rather nutty,” Bianchi recalls. Mattak is, by the way, a popular comfort food among Greenlanders. At “Koks”, a total of 18 courses are served. “You can tell that sustainability is highly valued here. The service team explains in great detail which products come from which fisher, hunter, or forager.”

Underrated: Luca Bianchi wants to give smelt a stronger push again.
Underrated: Luca Bianchi wants to give smelt a stronger push again.

Spectacular: The ptarmigan on a feather skewer.
Spectacular: The ptarmigan on a feather skewer.
Ptarmigan and seabird. Poul Andrias Ziska, who has cooked at Geranium in Copenhagen among other places, has the opportunity here to work with truly exceptional products. “If you’ve come to Greenland to experience the culture and the food, then you have to embrace it. It’s not about provoking people. But they should think about where their food comes from and how it ends up on the plate,” Ziska tells The Telegraph. Various wild birds such as the rock ptarmigan or the guillemot—a type of seabird—end up on Bianchi’s plate. Both birds are among the house’s signature dishes. “The ptarmigan was even served to us on the feather as a little poultry skewer,” Bianchi sums up, impressed.
Coming soon to Bianchi. Alongside wild poultry, there is also plenty from the sea. “The Arctic shrimp has a very translucent texture and a sweetish flavour. Then there was smelt, a fish that has fallen a bit out of fashion with us. But in Japan it has gained great importance,” the fish expert explains. Capelin is fatty, the texture delicate, and the flavour nutty. At 11 PM, when the last course is served, it is still light outside. Luca and Deborah do not need to return to warmer climes, as they sleep in a lodge belonging to the restaurant. And Luca Bianchi is already thinking about which products might be of interest to his customers in Switzerland. “We will probably never be able to add whale to our range, but I will definitely promote smelt again.”
